Repaint Project

[Anonymous]

Can Anyone help with any info on repainting f3s. I recently acquired a pair of lionel NYC 2344s. I got them cheap, someone repained the shells. First red and then green and yellow on top of the red. It seems that someone before me tried to remove the paint with paint thinner as the dummy unit warped and the shell is a bit soft. With much patience and a lot of time I removed the paint with a mini screwdirver set. After the paint was all off of both of the units, I heated the dummy and made it straight. I hit them with a scotch brite and washed them with some soap and water. I already purchased the paint, can anyone tell me anything else I can do in order to assure that the paint will stick properly. Thank You in advance

[Anonymous]

I did three F3 shells. Make sure they are clean then clean again. Then spray primer and let dry before you paint.

[Anonymous]

Thanks for the response. Can you recomend any primer in particular? Thanks Again

[brianel027]

Hi NYCPA, as I sit here with my coffee in my K-Line coffee mug, maybe I can offer some help some. Probably 60%-75% of my stuff has been repainted.
First off, you can use either automobile brake fluid or brand name PineSol to remove old paint. PineSol might be a safe bet with the older Lionel shells. The plastic they used then was a different plastic than is used today, and is very sensitive to some paint removers (as your warped shells show). One you have removed your paint, BE SURE to wa***he shells in clean warm soapy dishwater. Scrub the shells down good and rinse them.
Now I've always been the odd-duck in any group... if you are using an airbrush, fine. I use spray paint.
•Use a plastic safe spray paint. By my experience, the following all work: Krylon Living Color (water latex base), Sherwin-Williams Color Touch (also NYBCO Color Touch), DAP Touch 'nTone, Proven Brands Enamel, Plasti-Kote Odds 'n' Ends, DAP Spray 'n Go, and Krylon Short Cuts. Rustoleum has just come out with a line of plastic safe spray paint too. I most use the Krylon Short Cuts, the DAP Spray 'n Go and the Color Touch.
•You can use a non-plastic freindly color like Rustoleum for a final coat, BUT you MUST use a plastic safe primer and cover the ENTIRE shell inside and out first.
•Your primers are a little more forgiving than regular color. Meaning you can build up the paint a bit more with out it showing. The nice thing about the older (pre-prototypical shells) is that the details, rivets etc. were usually exaggerated, you you don't have to worry about losing them in the process of adding mutiple coats. I'm sure this is why the HO guys use airbrushes (airbrushes allow more regulated flow of paint). The older Lionel bakelite plastic shells don't take paint as well so you'll want to build up the primer slowly. If the shell is molded in a light color, you may want to use a gray primer to "light proof" the shell. Otherwise, a white primer will allow fewer coats of the final color, especially if it's a light color like yellow or orange. If you grey prime something like a caboose, to keep the light from making the shell "glow", then put a light coat of white primer over the grey if you are painting the caboose one of those light colors like yellow or orange.
•Follow the mfgers. suggestions with whatever paint you use. The paints all mentioned above have relatively quick drying times. The general rule of thumb is to not try to get all your painting done in one coat... you don't want paint runs or drips. Go for several coats of building up your color.
•Be sure to paint the inside of the shell too, especially around the porthold windows, headlights, front windshields and along the bottom.
•I also took a large cardboard box and made a painting booth. I cut a hole in the top for a clamp light with a metal dome to shine down in the box for heat (using a ceramic fixture base type - they handle the heat better). I use another clamp light to shine in the front of the box. Start off with 60-75 watt bulbs, and be sure there's at least 8 inches between the light and the shell - you don't want tp warp or melt what you are painting! I cut another hole in the side and inserted a hole from an old vaccum cleaner to suck up paint fumes and dust. And I use one of those Rubermaid spinning "Lazy Susan" type cupboard organizers to put my shell on... those are real real handy for spraypainting... you can easily turn your shell as it's being painted without touching it.
•Always use a glossy paint for final color coat... decals need a glossy surface. You can use a primer color or a flat color, but then you'll need to gloss coat it before adding decals.
•If you are using an airbrush, I've heard others say the ScaleCoat paint marketed by Weaver is very nice, as with the Model Master brand. I've used Model Master for some hand brushing detail work, and find it works very nice.
•I've used all major brands of decals and find MICROSCALE work the best. Hearld King were also nice, but not being made anymore. Decals are an art in themselves... I've seen many a poor decal job, and I've seen good ones... and the good one is what you want.

If you are decaling the shells, mention it and I can offer more advice on that part.

brianel, Agent 027

[Boxcar Bill]

Hello

First let me say that I hope you have an enjoyable experience in repainting those engines. Twenty years ago when when I started I used scalecoat paint remover sold by
Wm K Walthers, at the present they sold out. Go to www.micromark.com they are advertising another brand

[Anonymous]

Thanks for the info guys. I didn't get any primer with the paint but I ordered it after reading the posts. The box Idea is really cool and I'm going to try it. I'm actually not sure what brand of decals they are. I got them from Olsen's Toy Train Parts. I also got the paint from them. I'm waiting on the primer. Anyone interested in pics I'll e-mail before and afters(let me know). The micromark web site has a lot of cool stuff too. Thanks again guys.