Need Help With a Loose Truck Side

[Jumijo]

I've got a post war box car that needs some attention. One of the trucks has two loose side frames that are easily opened enough for the axle ends to be seen. The side frames wobble open and closed. The truck in question is a 1950's vintage bar-end metal type with magnetic couplers. What needs to be done to secure the side frames of the truck tightly?

Jim

[lionelsoni]

The truck bolster is held in place in the side frame by upsetting the top of the zinc casting where it passes over the end of the bolster.  You may be able to fix it by hitting it there with a large punch.  Or you might break the zinc casting, which tends to be brittle.

[ChiefEagles]

Zap Gap or Super Glue. 

[Jumijo]

Thanks, boys. I tried one method, now will try the other.

Jim

[rtraincollector]

Zap Gap or Super Glue. 

 

What no duck dape

[brianel027]

Jim, I didn't respond immediately as I was hoping someone had a better idea than me that I could learn from.

The main part of of the truck frame is sheet metal with two tabs on each side that the truck side goes on to (via two slits in the truck sides). I unbend two of the four the tabs that hold what the Lionel Repair Manual refers to as the Bottom Frame Assembly. These tabs are bent over the wheel axles. I then use a block of scrap pine wood cut to the inside width of the truck frame, insert that (to prevent the sheet metal inner frame from bending) and then using a straight screw driver and hammer, I hammer the sheet metal tabs that go through the truck sides.

I can usually tighten them up this way. I haven't tried the glue idea, but may give that a try next time the problem arrises. I've slowly grown to like the old standard Lionel magnetic truck. When I think that most I have are almost 50 years old if not older - and still work - that's a real statement of how well they were made.

I also like the Lionel AAR Timken style plastic truck that started appearing in the late 1950's. I seldom have trouble with these either. I keep the points on the axles (where the wheels slide over) of both types of trucks clean and well lubricated and they run just fine.

As another pointer, I've mentioned I drill off plastic trucks held with rivets on to car bodies, and re-aatach them with a blackened screw and a lock nut. It helps tremendously to eliminate the truck wobble that can cause derailments when running a train backwards though curves or switches.

I do the same thing with the above mentioned "staple side" trucks. During the late 1940's-1950's when these trucks were used, most folks were not running the long trains many of us run on our layouts today. I find the looseness of these trucks the way they come can contribute to derailments when backing up on curves and into switches.

I also unbend the wheel tabs as mentioned above and drill out the grooved stud where the "C" clip goes. Then I can re-attach these trucks using the screw and locknut method. The stud and "C" clip attachment method allows for a great deal of wobble in the trucks. Some have put a small washer over the top of the truck over the stud before attaching the truck with the "C" clip. But I've had a hard time finding washers thick enough to do the job, without being too think to prevent easy swivel of the trucks when attached. The screw and locknut method allows the greatest degree of adjustment.

[PhilaKnight]

Don't want to slam it to hard just enough to snug it up. If it keeps getting loose then I would try a glue or epoxy. JB weld is good and it dries to a gray color so it might not notice it. Plus it can be painted

[ChiefEagles]

Jim knows why I said Super Glue.  I know a couple of guys who have actually "rebuilt" Post War engines by removing damaged die cast and replacing it with sections of good.  How did they attach the parts?  With super glue.  When finished, you could not tell it.

[msacco]

CA or super glue for me too. I have done this repair a lot and superglue is perfect for it. If you use a toothpick and apply sparingly you can't even see the repair.

 

Mike S

[Jumijo]

I'd like to thank you all for the great input.

Brian, I have some frieght cars that I want to repaint. Your small screw and locknut idea sounds like the perfect plan after I drill out those rivets.

I tried Bob's idea last night without success, but I didn't want to break the side frames, so I went fairly easy. I could always swap the truck with the one on my parts caboose.

Jim