How do suitcase connectors (insulation displacement connectors) work?

You put the wires in the end. No need to strip the wires. You pu***he metal tab down with pliers. This cuts the insulation and makes contact with the wires. Then fold the tab over and it snaps in place. I have used them several times on things. Not on the layout yet, but should work great for connecting two wires.

Ok, so you don't need to strip the wires, cool. Can I use them as a bus wire like this? I think that is what Joe Fugate mean in the DCC clinic but I'm not sure.



Or maybe as bus power for tortoise switch machines?

They are ideal for that.

Where do you get those cool diagrams from?

Ken.

I had a Jeep that I rewired with extra offroad lights, and rather than running separate wires to each light, I ran a single power wire bus and tapped off of it for each light, just like your second diagram Electrolove. Granted, that was DC, and I grounded the lights separately, but in principal, I think your idea should be fine for DC or DCC.

I did this in Photoshop. I used to work as a webdesigner and Photoshop teacher. I try to make little diagrams like this as often I can, just to make it clearer to everyone else that read the post. And it's a good way to explain things when I ask things as well. Always much easier to understand graphics then my crappy english. I'm from Sweden you know...

QUOTE: Originally posted by NZRMac They are ideal for that. Where do you get those cool diagrams from? Ken.

Cool, I learn new things every day, thanks.

QUOTE: Originally posted by jshrade I had a Jeep that I rewired with extra offroad lights, and rather than running separate wires to each light, I ran a single power wire bus and tapped off of it for each light, just like your second diagram Electrolove. Granted, that was DC, and I grounded the lights separately, but in principal, I think your idea should be fine for DC or DCC.

Btw:

This is another Photoshop trick that I use a lot. It's very handy sometimes. It's a fragment of the layout I'm building. The benchwork you see in the picture is about 30% of the whole benchwork.



Trackplan source: Model Railroader, 1987 November Issue, The Iron Wood RR by Larry R. Forgard

The brand name for those things is Scotch Lox. They've been used for years in the automotive industry. Say you want a add cruise on a car that didn't have it from the factory? That's how some of the wire connections are made since not all cars come with cruise harnesses. I don't really like them in long term applications. They leave the wire connection exposed to the elements. I guess if they stay indoors on a layout though, they might be ok. I'd still dab the ends with silicone though, just out of paranioa.

QUOTE: Originally posted by electrolove Can someone please explain how suitcase connectors (insulation displacement connectors) works? I have seen them on pictures (like the on below) but I can't figure it out.

Electrolove:
Now you’ve really peaked my curiosity. Is the picture a 1:1 print or did you merge your layout drawing on a photo of your bench work?

Roy

This is how it's done:

First I took a picture of my benchwork with my digital camera. Then I scanned the trackplan from an old number of model railroader. The trackplan is on a separate layer in Photoshop where I used the Distort tool to make the trackplan follow my benchwork. So I ended up with a 3d picture of the 2d trackplan, kind of. I also set the Opacity for the trackplan layer to around 40% so I can see the benchwork.

In fact, I planned my whole layout in Photoshop, benchwork, foam, track, inclines, scenery, electrical, backdrop, fascia. Everything on it's own layer so I can look at just the things I need for the moment. Nearly forgot to tell that I can measure everything with the Measure tool and translate it to the real world. So If I want to know the position of a turnout or a building, or the length of a track, or if my arms can reach everything, it's so easy. It's wonderful...

QUOTE: Originally posted by Derailedtoosoon Electrolove: Now you’ve really peaked my curiosity. Is the picture a 1:1 print or did you merge your layout drawing on a photo of your bench work? Roy

Electrolove, they work great, that's all I use on my layout.

The way they work is, you get the wires in place, then with a pair of pliers, squeeze them. The metal piece is is sharp and slotted. It pierces the insulation, and flares out around the wire. They should really be used with stranded wire, not solid.

You are supposed to only have to squeeze once, with that flap folded over the metal blade, but I've found it works better to do it in two steps. First get the blade all the way into the wire, then close the flap, which actually locks it in place.

You are probably going to want to use the red ones though. They are for smaller gauge wire. I use both sizes. I must say, these gizmos are a little expensive, but the good news is that they can be reused a couple of times, if you have the patience to salvage them.

Electrolove,

That's a neat trick with Photoshop. Wish I had the skills to do that.

BTW, my brother lived in Osthammer (I think that was the town's name) for a couple of years in the early nineties. (Taught music in the local school system and community.) I visited for a couple of weeks and we did the tourist thing. You have a beautiful country!

David

This is most interesting...

Last April, when I was ready to string bus wires under part of my layout, somebody recommended that I use Scotch Locs instead of trying to solder my connections above head level (somewhat unsafe). OK, I thought, good idea!

So I went to my local hardware store and asked for them. The kid working there didn't know what I was talking about, so he called the manager, who said: "Oh yeah, I know what you mean" and he sold me some regular metal crimps that had the word 'lock' on the package label. Since I never read the "Electrical Wiring For Dummies" book I didn't know any better, so I bought them and used them. It took me ~4 weeks to do all the necessary stripping and cutting - NOW I find out I probably spent 3 weeks longer than necessary![:(!][banghead]

Arrrrrrrghh!!!

Well at least I'm not done yet, I guess I can still use these on the unfinished half of the layout...[sigh]

Electrolove,

I used the Scotch Locs exclusively on the club layout and they are great. I used only the blue ones with a 14 AWG bus wire and 22 AWG feeders. (Several hundred!) You can buy them in bulk at electrical supply houses. Don't buy them at auto parts houses or Radio Shack - way too expensive. You can also re-use them if you need to. You'll figure out how to pull the wires out and reset the metal piece. I've found that small channel-lock pliers work better than regular pliers to set the metal crimp.

If you haven't started wiring the layout yet, I suggest you use a color code for the wiring. All left rail feeders are the same color as the left rail bus, a different color for the right rail. Makes it fast and foolproof to connect the wires. If you drop a wire from the turnout frogs, use a thrid color. Tony Koester uses green (as in frog). Good luck.

Mark C.

Electro:

Have you seen Siskiyou Line vol 3 yet on electrical and control? I actually show how I install a suitcase connector on a power bus feed.

Picture is worth a 1000 words as they say.

The DCC clinic video from Seattle last year covers a lot of the concepts I actually demonstrate in vol 3. So if you want to see it done, vol 3's what you are looking for.

As has been said aleady, these things are easy to use. You just clip the suitcase connector over the bus wire, stick the feeder wire in the tap hole, and crimp with a heavy pair of pliers.

In my case, I use a 905 connector that is intended for 14 guage wire main and an 18 guage tap, but I use it over 12 guage wire main because I also want the 18 guage tap.

To get the connector work on 12 guage wire, I cut through just the insulation on the 12 guage wire first, then clip it on over the cut. Works like a charm on 12 guage wire this way, and I get the 18 guage tap that I want.

For some reason, 3M's 12 guage main suitcase connector only goes to a 22 guage tap as the largest size, which is too small for what I want. I prefer heavier feeders because some of my feeders run for several feet. Also, this heavier suitcase connector costs quite a bit more, so I also like the lighter 905's because they are cheaper.

Make sense?

Thanks Joe. Yes it makes sense, you are good at explaining things. The only thing I don't understand right now is what guage means. I asked that in another post. I'm trying to translate it to my Swedish world.

Electro:

Wire guage, as you probably guessed, refers to the diameter of the wire. The smaller the number, the larger the wire.

From big to small ...
12 guage is the size of typical heavy wire used in house wiring (20A circuits)
14 guage is smaller than 12 guage and is used for lighter house wiring (15A circuits)
16 guage is sometimes called lamp wiring and is the size used in typical lightweight extension chords
18 guage is light wire sometimes called bell wire because it was first used in telephone wiring, and it's also commonly used to build ciruits in electrical classes in school
22 guage wire is often used in modern telephone wiring, and is a nice lightweight wire that's handy for carrying low voltages.

Hope that helps.

Joe, got it, thanks.

While they may indeed work great, I just have this thing about trusting crimped-on anything. Even my bus lines - I put spade connectors on the ends to attach to a terminal strip. I crimp them with my crimper and then solder them. All my track drops to the bus are soldered - I have one of those automatic stripping tools, that clamps and strips the wire with one squeeze. It also is quite handy to strip back small sections of insulation - on the bus wire where I then wrap the bare end of the feeder around and solder. I offset the joints so the two bare spots are not adjancent to one another, but also go back and paint them with liquid electrical tape just to be doubly sure. Maybe overkill, but they also don't make taps for #12 to #20. I've been through the 3M web site. There's a #14 to #20, and a #12 to #18, but none suitable for 12 to 20.

--Randy

I have to agree with Randy, soldering is the prefered method for long term reliability. Suit cases are nice, quick and easy but not fool proof long term!
Will

I use suitcase connectors quite a bit. I have never had a connection fail. I also use the silicon-filled connectors that join three wires. They are used by the telephone company. They are made of red and clear plastic. Stick the three wires in three separate holes, squeeze, and you have a foolproof connection. I imagine they are a bit more expensive than Scotch Lox connectors. I'm not sure what they are called, since my telephone repairman neighbor gave me a bag of them. I think I paid 12 cents each for the suitcase connectors.

I think a properly done IDC, with the right wire and the right tools, will not fail. Might wvwn be better than solder, since you don't have the transition from rigid solder to flexible wire. Either way is plenty good, as long as it is done right. Crimps are a problem when they are hacked with improper tools (guilty).

Seems to be different opinions here. I really think every method is good, if you do it right. And maybe there is personal taste involved as well... [2c]

QUOTE: Originally posted by electrolove I really think every method is good, if you do it right.[2c]

That's the key...

Scotchloks, by 3M, are great, IF you use the right ones. The ones shown are not for exterior applications. They make ones for exterior applications with a semi liquid something in them to seal against the elements that are good even in a salt water atmosphere environment. As noted earlier, the interior ones shown leave the conductor exposed and can lead to corrosion. Should not be used on cars but every trailer hitch place in the world does it anyway because that's what the local Home Depot or Lowes stocks.
Use the right gauge ones too, otherwise you can have problems.
One last comment. These are NOT crimp on connectors (3M makes those too). The metal piece slides into place and is sprung to stay in place after it displaces the insulation. The 3M crimp on connectors will also last lifetimes IF you put them on with the 3M crimper that is made for them. Many eons ago, like 1968, AT&T, as in the old Ma Bell, used thousands of these things a week, and many are still in service, and I never heard of one failing that was was put on correctly (not with pliers), and they have been in continuous use ever since.

Right Electro. I think the ones you pictured will be just fine for the long haul. As long as your layout will be built and remain indoors, I really don't think you'll have a problem. If your layout is outside in a shop or outbuilding, I'd be more worried about moisture and corrosion. As I spoke of earlier, if it was me, I'd just dab silicone on the ends to seal it up. That way, you know you'll have a good connection for a LONG time.

QUOTE: Originally posted by electrolove Seems to be different opinions here. I really think every method is good, if you do it right. And maybe there is personal taste involved as well... [2c]

QUOTE: Originally posted by rrinker While they may indeed work great, I just have this thing about trusting crimped-on anything. Even my bus lines - I put spade connectors on the ends to attach to a terminal strip. I crimp them with my crimper and then solder them. All my track drops to the bus are soldered --Randy

I'm with Randy! I have had too many connections decide not to work over the years. I also prefer to use spade connectors and terminal strips and solder the connectors. Of course I find soldering very easy as I worked on an X Y frame for the Phone Company a couple of summers many, many years ago. I never have problems with open circuits. If those crimped on thingys get wiggled a few times you will have problems sooner or later. Just my [2c]

QUOTE: Originally posted by howmus QUOTE: Originally posted by rrinker While they may indeed work great, I just have this thing about trusting crimped-on anything. Even my bus lines - I put spade connectors on the ends to attach to a terminal strip. I crimp them with my crimper and then solder them. All my track drops to the bus are soldered --Randy I'm with Randy! I have had too many connections decide not to work over the years. I also prefer to use spade connectors and terminal strips and solder the connectors. Of course I find soldering very easy as I worked on an X Y frame for the Phone Company a couple of summers many, many years ago. I never have problems with open circuits. If those crimped on thingys get wiggled a few times you will have problems sooner or later. Just my [2c]

No way will they come loose (Scotchlok IDCs). If you've ever tried to remove one you'd see why. I have 100's of them on my layout (all drop feeders) and my layout runs smooth as silk. I could not imagine soldering all those drop feeders UNDER the layout.
I do use crimped spade connectors to connect bus wires to terminal strips at the booster locations.
No need for special tools for any of these. I use a plain pair of pliers to crimp the IDCs, works great. If you can snap the lid closed, it is crimped. For spade connectors, I use the crimper setting on the wire stripper.

QUOTE: Originally posted by clinchvalley No way will they come loose (Scotchlok IDCs). If you've ever tried to remove one you'd see why. I have 100's of them on my layout (all drop feeders) and my layout runs smooth as silk. I could not imagine soldering all those drop feeders UNDER the layout. I do use crimped spade connectors to connect bus wires to terminal strips at the booster locations. No need for special tools for any of these. I use a plain pair of pliers to crimp the IDCs, works great. If you can snap the lid closed, it is crimped. For spade connectors, I use the crimper setting on the wire stripper.

You may very well be right, but I still prefer a good solder joint to a crimped one. For spade lugs I also use the crimper on the wire stripper. I have found that if you wiggle the connection several times, about 1 in 4 will come loose. I don't solder under the table BTW. Spade lugs are put on the drop feeders before I run them up to the track (I value my eyes! LOL) This also saves time if and when you have to troubleshoot a short or change out track, etc.

But hey, Its your layout, do it what ever way works for you. I'm just one of those old f@%ts. [:D]