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Wiring a AR1 to a 90' Walthers Turntable without problems

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  • Member since
    February 2008
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Wiring a AR1 to a 90' Walthers Turntable without problems
Posted by the_aviator22281 on Tuesday, October 26, 2010 1:42 AM

Hello,

  Has anyone encountered any problems wiring a AR1 to a Walthers Turntable.  I wired the turntable by hooking up the bus feeders to the track power screws and the reversing section screws wired to the rails in the turntable.   When I roll my 2-10-0 Bachmann Spectrum into the turntable in dies right where the tender is about to enter the turntable.   I have a Soundtraxx Decoder installed model number DSD-B210LC.  I have tried turning the TTC screw but I still have the same problem.  It seems like I don't have power on the turntable tracks, because my loco does nothing even if i try to move it as if maybe it stalled.  I have checked the wiring as well, but there must be something I am doing wrong or overlooking.  Please help.  Thanks

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Posted by richhotrain on Tuesday, October 26, 2010 7:23 AM

the_aviator22281

Hello,

  Has anyone encountered any problems wiring a AR1 to a Walthers Turntable.  I wired the turntable by hooking up the bus feeders to the track power screws and the reversing section screws wired to the rails in the turntable.   When I roll my 2-10-0 Bachmann Spectrum into the turntable in dies right where the tender is about to enter the turntable.   I have a Soundtraxx Decoder installed model number DSD-B210LC.  I have tried turning the TTC screw but I still have the same problem.  It seems like I don't have power on the turntable tracks, because my loco does nothing even if i try to move it as if maybe it stalled.  I have checked the wiring as well, but there must be something I am doing wrong or overlooking.  Please help.  Thanks

I am not sure which Walthers 90' turntable you have (the older non-DCC version or the newer DCC version), but you should begin by reading my recent post on the Walthers 130' turntable.

Even though I had hooked up an AR-1 auto-reversing unit, it should not have been necessary since the Walthers TT has a built-in reversing mechanism.

Reading your post, I am not sure why you needed to add the AR-1 either, but if you do need to create a reversing section, it ought to be the approach track, not the turntable itself.

Tell us more about your problem and what prompted you to install an AR-1.

Rich

Alton Junction

  • Member since
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  • From: Vancouver Island, BC
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Posted by selector on Tuesday, October 26, 2010 7:44 AM

It really doesn't matter which isolated length of track you hook any reversing unit to, except that it may be redundant.  On the newer built-up TT's, it is redundant.  It will work seamlessly and quietly to accomplish nothing for you except to make sure there is not a short between to adjacent sets of gaps.   The TT does this automatically.

Crandell

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Posted by the_aviator22281 on Tuesday, October 26, 2010 1:23 PM

I have the older version that is not DCC. Walthers Cornerstone 90' Turntable 933-3171.  There is no built in reversing system.  And why would you even put the reversing section on the approach track and not the turntable.  the turntable is the section that actually changes polarity when you turn the table.

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  • From: Dearborn Station
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Posted by richhotrain on Tuesday, October 26, 2010 3:46 PM

the_aviator22281

I have the older version that is not DCC. Walthers Cornerstone 90' Turntable 933-3171.  There is no built in reversing system.  And why would you even put the reversing section on the approach track and not the turntable.  the turntable is the section that actually changes polarity when you turn the table.

Ahhh, you have the older, older Walthers Turntable, the one with the optional Motorizing Kit.

From what you wrote in your initial post, it should work.  Feeders from the bus wires to the input side of the AR1 and feeders from the output side of the AR1 to the rails of the turntable track.

You indicated in your initial post that it seems like you are not getting power to the turntable track.  Have you put a meter on it to see if there is electrical contact?  Or, for that matter, use a 12 volt bulb and place leads on each rail to see if the bulb lights, indicating currrent is flowing.

Rich

Alton Junction

  • Member since
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  • From: Vancouver Island, BC
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Posted by selector on Tuesday, October 26, 2010 8:15 PM

Thanks for clearing that up.  You are going to need either a reversing unit or a DPDT.  Still, you can place either device anywhere, as long as it is responsible for only a gapped length of track fed only through the device, and as long as you remember to work the DPDT when it is needed.

I can't be sure, but I found the copper wipers on the brass rings on the pivot to be easily dislodged over time.  I used a spacer that was of sufficient diameter that it acted like a flange to keep them in place.  I had no faith in the screws.  So, assuming your wires are soldered to the rings and going up to make solid contact with the rails, then the only other fault I can think of would be the wipers.

Crandell

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Posted by the_aviator22281 on Tuesday, October 26, 2010 8:50 PM

Richhotrain and Crandell,

  I think you both may be right.  I tried your trick with the light bulb, and I got power from the ar1 but not from the contacts to the rails of the turntable.  And I have noticed that is not a good setup for the ribbons on copper to make electric contact and stay.  I think what I found out is that the two copper rings on the bottom of the turntable were shorting out, so I am in the process of trying to isolate both and then go from there.  Hopefully that solves the issue.  I will try this and get back to you both to let you know what I found out.  Thanks David

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Posted by richhotrain on Tuesday, October 26, 2010 9:37 PM

the_aviator22281

Richhotrain and Crandell,

  I think you both may be right.  I tried your trick with the light bulb, and I got power from the ar1 but not from the contacts to the rails of the turntable.  And I have noticed that is not a good setup for the ribbons on copper to make electric contact and stay.  I think what I found out is that the two copper rings on the bottom of the turntable were shorting out, so I am in the process of trying to isolate both and then go from there.  Hopefully that solves the issue.  I will try this and get back to you both to let you know what I found out.  Thanks David

aviator,

Good detective work.  It sure sounds like you are on the right track.  Keep us posted.  Good luck.

Rich

Alton Junction

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Posted by trainman56 on Friday, April 28, 2017 10:21 PM

I HAVE THE WALTERS TURNTABLE 90 DEGREE AND I MISPLACED THE INSTRUCTIONS AND I CAN'T FIND ANY ONLINE, WHAT CAN I DO.? ON YOUR PROBLEM DO YOU HAVE THE TRACKS TOUCHING EACH OTHER OR IS THERE A SPACE? REMEMBER YOU NEED TO HAVE A CONNECTION TO EACH TRACK.

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Posted by richhotrain on Saturday, April 29, 2017 4:37 AM

trainman56

I HAVE THE WALTERS TURNTABLE 90 DEGREE AND I MISPLACED THE INSTRUCTIONS AND I CAN'T FIND ANY ONLINE, WHAT CAN I DO.? ON YOUR PROBLEM DO YOU HAVE THE TRACKS TOUCHING EACH OTHER OR IS THERE A SPACE? REMEMBER YOU NEED TO HAVE A CONNECTION TO EACH TRACK.

 

For starters, you are responding to a 7 year old thread.

Regarding the instructions for the 90' non-motorized turntable, go to this link and Download the Instruction Sheet.

https://www.walthers.com/90-turntable-kit-pit-diameter-13-3-16-quot-33cm-bridge-holds-loco-up-to-12-3-8-quot-30-9cm

I don't know what you mean by "you need to have a connection to each track" and that you must "have the tracks touching each other"? The tracks can be gapped as long as the gapped sections are powered.

Rich

Alton Junction

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  • From: Shenandoah Valley
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Posted by BigDaddy on Saturday, April 29, 2017 6:35 AM

Welcome to the forum

Typing in ALL CAPS is considered shouting in all the forums in all the Internet.  More importantly it is harder to read.

Henry

COB Potomac & Northern

Shenandoah Valley

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