Intermountain Santa Fe caboose (with Tomar lanterns)

I went ahead and experimented with one of the cabeese.  I found that you should "break" the glue holding the ladders either on the top or at the base.  Then you can pry the floor off...again breaking a few glue joints to do so.

Somewhat tedious to do because there are lots of fine details on the model.  But take your time and it isn't too bad.  Just re glue the ladders back on when done.  The nice thing is you don't have to take off the couplers or trucks.  Wish I knew this before as the Kadee couplers are a pain (think they are #78s) to put back on.  There is a small spring that has to be placed just right otherwise the coupler does not operate correctly.  Small tweezers are mandatory for this. 

Inside there is plenty of room for a battery.  I like to use a battery as track power would be tougher to do on these trucks that were not designed for easy track lighting.  Tomar makes it easy with their AA battery holder and switch (I plan to mount the switch in the forward facing door window)

When done, I'll have to post some photos of the now lit cabeese.

That is one thing that drives me nuts, trying ot figure out how to get into models.  I remember being completly stumped on my Genisis SD70. Took me a week I think to work up the cirauge to start pulling and prying.  All worked out well.

I wish I could have given you pointers but never had a chance to look at one close, but they sure are good looking model.  Just le ya know you are not alone.  I think at times I could crack into a bank vault easier then getting into some models. 

Southwest Chief

I have two Intermountain (Centralia Car Shops) assembled Santa Fe cabeese on our Santa Fe HO layout (road numbers 1786 and 1842).

Here is a link to the models:

Intermountain Caboose

And this is what it looks like:

 

It is a great model and a big step up from my very old but reliable Athearn caboose models.

 

Recently I purchased two Tomar marker light sets (Tomar #809) to light these cabeese.  Years ago I installed these Tomar markers into my Athearn caboose fleet.  This was very easy to do and nicely added simple to operate markers. 

So now I've been looking over one of the Intermountain caboose models and can't seem to figure out how I'm going to open it up to place the battery and wiring.

It looks as if I'll have to break some glue joints to get inside.

I had to do this with my Intermountain (Train Station Products) assembled Santa Fe Hi-Levels to paint and detail the interiors.  But since I was already familiar with the Train Station Products kits, I knew where I had to break any glue joints to get inside.

Not being familiar with these Centralia caboose models, I'm not sure where to try and break the glue joints to get inside.

Has anyone installed operating markers to these relatively new Intermountain caboose models yet?  If so how'd you get inside?

 Intermountain offers that same caboose in an undecorated kit, probably your best bet would be to contact them and see if they can fax you a copy of the instructions. I can't imagine the kit being any different then the assembled version. I've never built one of their caboose kits but I have a friend who did and if memory serves me correct I think the roof and floor sections get glued to the body so you may have your work cut out for you.

 

 

 

 I hear ya on trying to get in. I broke a tab on my first MTH SD70 before realizing how easy it was. You would think the literature that comes with the loco's would include instructions.  Especially these days where most get removed for decoder installation or maintenance.

Atlas, MTH, Athearn, BLI, Bachmann and others please take note 

UPDATE POST

I took some photos of the caboose models now with Tomar lanterns.

I'm really liking these new Intermountain assembled cabeese.  The versions I chose are perfect for our late 1950s Santa Fe "Coast Line" layout.  And after figuring out how to get inside, adding the lanterns was super easy.  If you are contemplating a similar conversion and have any questions, please feel free to ask.

 

Thos lighted markets look neat.  Still, I don't intend to apply lighted marker lights until they are self-contained/powered and can be added/removed easily at will in an instant.  Definitely don't want to see them on cars not at the train end or are parked on the caboose track or in the coach yard.  On second thought, I may not ever use them because taking them one and off would be a hassle and I'm getting more fumble-fingered by the year.

Mark

 Look great but are you going to let us in on how you finally got inside.........lol

Allegheny2-6-6-6

 Look great but are you going to let us in on how you finally got inside.........lol

 

Allegheny2-6-6-6.

The poster did come back and explained how he did it further in the thread. It involved carefully breaking the glue joints that hold the model together. It appears that time and patience are the keys but from the look of the lit markers, it was time well spent. Well done.

Blue Flamer.

Allegheny2-6-6-6

 Look great but are you going to let us in on how you finally got inside.........lol

 

Sorry bout that.  Should have been clearer in the posts above.

Caboose Disassembly

Step 1 (unhooking the ladders)

You have to pull out the end ladders from the top.  They are not glued in, or not very tightly.  Carefully pull up on the curved wire part.  They should pop out of tiny holes.  Then gently pull back on the top section of the ladder.  The top of the ladder should come off of the part where it connects with the roof.  The ladder connects to the roof with small pegs, again not glued very tightly.  Try to avoid putting pressure on the bottom of the ladder.  Otherwise it will break off and you'll have to reglue it...not an easy thing to do.

Step 2 (getting inside)

With the ladders removed from the roof, you then flip the caboose upside down.  Find the glue seam where the body attaches to the floor.  I ran a thin Xacto flat blade around the edge to help pop out the glue joints.  Then gently pull on the trucks and the floor should come off of the body all in one piece.  Just be careful not to break off the ladders (which should still be attached to the floor) when you pull the floor off. 

Here's a tip.  Do not remove the trucks, and especially do not remove the couplers.

Step 3 (installing the markers)

You have to be brave at this point because you have to drill holes into the caboose.  The markers I chose are Tomar part #809 (Y-Y-R).  If your prototype used green side lenses, then Tomar part #807 (G-G-R) is the one to get.

Mark the location where you want the markers to go with a pencil.  Make sure it is lined up on both sides.  The model comes with tiny marker light brackets already installed (on both ends depending on which way the caboose is running).  But because the Tomar markers are fairly large at the wire end, I could not mount them on the brackets.  Further the markers would have to be turned slightly like the Santa Fe prototypes, but the Tomar markers are intended for a straight side flush mounting.

To make the holes for the markers, I started with a 1/16" bit in my handheld pin vise.  Then I went up to a 5/64" to widen the hole.  The markers sill will not fit so I carefully stared but did not go through with a 3/32" bit.  This gives enough room to press the markers in without making the hole too big.

I glued the markers in place with Gluesmith Thick glue.  Hold them for a few seconds until the glue sets.

Step 4 (wiring the markers)

To power the markers, I used the Tomar Battery Power Hook Up Kit, part #812.  This includes a AA battery holder and on/off slide switch, along with some wire..

I mounted the battery holder onto the caboose weight which takes up the entire floor of the caboose.  I attached it with double sided tape.

The on/off switch was placed in the front end door window.  Seeing as the cabeese on my layout will almost always be on the end of a train, and typically behind a boxcar or reefer, you'd have to look closely to see the switch.

The window pops out from behind very easily.  Almost like it was press fit in and not glued...sort of like AMB windows which I think may have been used on these.

I attached the switch using Gluesmith Thick glue.  Screws would be the best, but I didn't have any small enough.  So far the glue is holding nicely.  It is pretty strong stuff if you apply it correctly.  Just be sure not to get any glue on the toggle part of the switch.  That would be really bad.

To turn the light on and off, I use a very thing long flat head screwdriver (made for electronics).  All I have to do is slide the switch up to turn them on, and down to turn them off.  Pretty simple.

The markers give off a very nice amount of light.  Being bulbs they will have a finite life, so I don't plan to use them all that often.  They'll be used mostly when I have guests to see the layout or if I'm doing a night operation and need to see where the ends of the trains are.