I have an IHC Premier 2-6-0, that over the years has suffered some wear and tear. It has been upgraded with sound decoders, etc, but the nickle-silver plating on the wheels has come off. It now is VERY sensitive to dirty track and wheels and requires cleaning every time I want to run it.
Does anyone have any suggestions as to how to solve this? I've thought about painting the wheel treads with Neolube, but heard that it could come off if scratched? A spare set of drivers from IHC would solve the problem, but now that they've closed down, I don't have much hope about that.
Any advice would be much appreciated.
Many thanks, Steve
Micro-Mark sells a "do-it-yourself" electroplating kit that might work for you. I don't have one, so I can't say how well it works. Otherwise, try to find a junker on eBay or at a train show, and transplant the direvers.
Greg
My BLI Hudson is down to the brass and it has had no ill effect on the engine. Do the IHC have power pick up from the tender? If not, that might be a way to go.
If you make the engine heaver that might help power pick up.
Cuda Ken
I hate Rust
Normally, wheels with the plating worn off perform just fine. The plating is mostly cosmetic. There are plenty of older brass models out there running around with plating worn off wheelsets--and they run just fine.
That said, I have experienced the same pickup and poor power conductivity issues with Athearn Genesis F Units when the plating wears and even just begins to show brass. I got rid of all my Genesis F Units.
I would ask:
Are the wheels pitted? If pitted, the pits can retain dirt, tarnish, etc.
When you run it with room lights off, do you see arcing between wheels and track?
If there is pitting or arcing, you might try polishing the wheel surface smooth with something really fine (not a harsh abrasive)--to remove any irregularities that might retain tarnish, etc.
Alternatively, you might try cleaning the wheel surface with a solvent to remove whatever crud is on there and restore better conductivity. (Be careful not to get any solvent on the plastic body or details).
Just suggestions...
John
You might want to explore adding a sliding pickup contact shoe (now there's a mouthful) to that engine. Tomar makes one -- Walthers catalog part 81-805.
Dave Nelson
If you can gleam track could you not do the same with wheels?
alco's forever!!!!! Majoring in HO scale Minorig in O scale:)
Greenway Products has a large assortment of replacement locomotive drivers if you can accurately determine the diameter and other necessary measurements of the IHC wheels.
http://greenwaybrass.com/s_87_drivers.shtml
Personally, I don't think the plating being worn off of the wheels are the cause of your problems with keeping them clean. What method of track cleaning are you using? At our HO scale club the best we have found, other than gleaming, is a CMX Clean Machine filled with Lacquer Thinner followed by a Centerline Track Cleaning Roller running dry.
Centerline recommends and supplies Goo Gone with their track cleaning car, but Goo Gone leaves a sticky film on the rail that just attracts more dirt.
I have an IHC Mogul and know for sure that there is no electrical connection between the tender and locomotive. The locomotive drivers are the only power pickup source for the motor, and the tender has separate electrical pickup wipers for the backup light that is on it.
Something else to look for is dirt on the sides of the drive wheels where the pickup wipers on the loco make contact, or the wipers may be too worn to make reliable contact. If you can run the engine while it is turned upside down, clean the insides of the drivers with a Q-tip and track cleaning fluid or rubbing alcohol.
There are several folks who will replate wheels for a fee. Also, local metal shops may be able to do it for you.
Phil, "the Shay Fixer" is one I know of who is experienced in replating model train wheels, and there are others.
Fred W
If the tires are worn, but you also know they are clean, then I would be taking a very close look at the power pickups on that engine. They are copper wipers, or maybe phosphor-bronze, but like anything else rubbing against a surface over countless cycles....they get worn, or they get dirty.
You will need to very carefully clean them, and the surface against which they rub, and maybe even add some more flex and springiness to ensure solid contact. This takes patience because they are more fragile than you might think. Please.....don't ask....
-Crandell
I guess the first thing is to find out where the pickups are, in the tender or loco. If on the tender than it's those wheels and pickup that has to be addressed.
Springfield PA
Thanks for the great response.
Following some suggestions, I checked for sparking, found some, and on closer inspection, noticed that there brass was pitted and the pits were holding dirt. This was polished and the track gleamed in places as a test (so far, so good). I also cleaned the pick-up wipers.
The engine has pickups on all drivers and the tender, and the lack of plating, once the wheels were spotless (including the crud in the corner of the flanges) is not an issue. The issue is not entirely resolved, but HUGELY improved.
If it continues, I might have a look at that sliding shoe and add some weight.
Previously I was cleaning wheels with nail varnish remover for plastic nails, but noticed it does leave a small amount of residue.
Thanks for the help. Cheers, Steve
One of the best substances for cleaning wheels and electrical contacts that I have found is commercial acetone. Just don't get it on any plastic surfaces or paintwork.