The finest urban passenger station

It’s not in New York City or Chicago. Whatever grandeur they possessed was lost in the teardowns of half a century ago. Washington, D.C., is nice, but not a friendly place. Kansas City is a personal favorite for the memories it holds, but it’s woefully underused now and therefore barren. Seattle feels like a basement. Kudos to Baltimore Penn Station and Boston South Station for their blend of tradition and modernity. Los Angeles is a fine runner-up. But can’t we agree that Portland, Ore., Union Station sets the standard for all the others?

The structure was built by Northern Pacific Terminal Company for $300,000 and opened on Valentine’s Day 127 years ago. The exterior walls are a mixture of brick and what appears to be concrete stucco. But the architecturally distinctive element is the clock tower that soars 150 feet above the street. “Go By Train” beckons a neon sign on two sides and “Union Station” on the other sides. The signs were added after World War II and turned off after the start of Amtrak. But railfan groups raised money to restore the lights in the mid-1980s.

Inside, a 30-foot ceiling looks down on the smallish (but adequate) waiting room. The benches are of the classic design and look as if they are rubbed with linseed oil nightly. The waiting room and adjacent Metropolitan Lounge for first-class passengers open directly to trackside; there are no tunnels, ramps, or stairs to trudge along.

The crowning touch is a first-class restaurant, Wilfs, which occupies the station’s south end. The bartender today was impressed that I knew his home town, Lander, Wyo., was the western end of the Chicago & North Western for many years. He says that when the southbound Coast Starlight is on time, passengers often come inside for a quick lunch and cocktail. True, because one such person in the past has been me.

So that’s my nominee for best urban passenger station. Not too big, not too small for what’s demanded of it, but just right. It’s older than just about every other city passenger station in the U.S. without feeling old. Convenient to the city it serves and right next to the tracks. In other words, practically perfect in every way. — Fred W. Frailey

Comments

Want to leave a comment? Login or register for an account to join our online community!
 
 
oltmannd wrote re: The finest urban passenger station
on Fri, Jan 20 2012 7:03 AM

My vote would be 30th St. in Philadelphia.  Every time I'm there, it brings a smile to my face.

It's only 84 years old but it's massive architecture, traffic level and myriad of destinations available still say "trains are important".  It's location adjacent to the growing west side of Center City keep it fully integrated into the life of the city.

The high ceiling, Art Deco chandeliers and limestone walls with big, vertical windows give it the second-most impressive concourse in the US - behind GCT, of course.

The concourse full of shops give it a feeling of being alive.

It is one of the few in the US that can rival the big, busy passenger stations I've seen in Germany.

 
 
 
northeaster wrote re: The finest urban passenger station
on Fri, Jan 20 2012 7:10 AM

Good choice, Fred. I love Portland Station for all the reasons you gave plus, it has such a workman like atmosphere to it, you feel a real sense of place and that place is Portland. I did however view it for two hours when the UP freight crew ahead of us went dead and there were no replacement crews available after UP offered an early buy out...discipline ruled and only one passenger opened the door in the yard and jumped into his waiting friends car nearby.

 
 
 
MidlandMike wrote re: The finest urban passenger station
on Fri, Jan 20 2012 4:01 PM

I know Penn Station in New York lost its grandeur, but Grand Central Terminal still seemed pretty grand after its refurbishment

 
 
 
GN_Fan wrote re: The finest urban passenger station
on Sun, Jan 22 2012 7:39 AM

I agree with Fred.  I revently took a coast to coast trip from Boston thru Chicago, Seattle, and down to Emmeryville, and I have to agree that Portland is superb.  I was totally disappointed in Boston North Sation and the concourse in Chicago, and King Street sorely needs a facelift.  Because of a freak landslide just south of Tacoma,we were bused to Portland which gave us time to have a couple of nice gin and tonics in Wilfs, which we completely enjoyed.  After reading articles in Trains about PUS was falling apart, it was a joy to see it being restored.  It was a great experience, indeed.

 
 
 
Urbenville wrote re: The finest urban passenger station
on Mon, Jan 23 2012 3:02 AM

Its not just the architecture. The blokes working there were extremely helpful when I visited there in june 2011.

Another very nice station is El Paso.

 
 
 
gbrewer wrote re: The finest urban passenger station
on Mon, Jan 23 2012 4:51 PM

I certainly agree that it is one of the best.

My first visit there was when traveling with a friend from Seattle to Denver on the UP (before Amtrak). We had a bit of a layover there, and talked our way into a guided tour of the clock at the top of the tower. Those stairs were a bit rickety; the elderly gentleman not only had to go up there weekly to wind the clock, but I believe he went up twice daily to raise and lower the flag.

 
 
 
gg1bob wrote re: The finest urban passenger station
on Mon, Jan 23 2012 5:20 PM

Thanks Fred- I hope to get to Portland someday.  (I've only made it as far as Essex, MT.)

I agree with another commenter- 30th Street in Philly is near the top of the list.  It's a great feeling to stand in the main concourse and absorb all the sights, sounds, smells, etc.  It's one of the great buildings of the world!  It could use a first-class restaurant, however.  Of the current restaurants, Bridgewater's Pub is nice, and I'm glad to see that they put their "Pub Burger" back on the menu.  They also have a nice selection of beer to suit anyone's taste.

 
 
 
tomstamey wrote re: The finest urban passenger station
on Mon, Jan 23 2012 6:03 PM

Leander was not only the end of the westward C&NW.  Without doubt it is at the end of the world.  Never will forget I was there the last year of service by C&NW, saw one box car in town.  Looked out and saw all  the empty prairie, and the far away Wind River Range of the Rockies.  As the sun went down, never felt so lonely in my life.  Not even a jack-rabbit was stiring!

Yeah, I know, someone will crawl all over me for that.  

Tom Stamey

 
 
 
The Mighty Oz wrote re: The finest urban passenger station
on Mon, Jan 23 2012 6:48 PM

I kinda like Alexandria VA....saw lots of neat stuff while spending very small amount of time in the past few years, the station is neat, there's a DS "look-ahead" screen in the office, and plenty of creature comforts.  You can see the trains up close and personal.

 
 
 
citidude wrote re: The finest urban passenger station
on Mon, Jan 23 2012 7:55 PM

I have no favorites, but agree that Portland is one of the nicest stations on Amtrak's system in terms of architecture, train activity, passenger amenities and location.  Grand Central Terminal is also a gem.  Others I like are Los Angeles Union Passenger Terminal and Hoboken's Lackawanna Terminal.

 
 
 
Gaffer wrote re: The finest urban passenger station
on Tue, Jan 24 2012 11:12 AM

I would add to the worthy list New Haven, CT. station which serves both Amtrak and Metro North, the old New Haven commuter service. the station was retored several years ago and is once again in top notch condition.

 
 
 
bobwilcox wrote re: The finest urban passenger station
on Tue, Jan 24 2012 11:53 AM

My family holds the Portland station very dear.  It is where my Dad descended from the Klamath and we knew for sure he had survived the war.

 
 
 
Sunnyland wrote re: The finest urban passenger station
on Tue, Jan 24 2012 1:01 PM

I was in Portland station in 2003 when I changed trains from the Builder to Coast Starlight.  I was very impressed with the beauty of the station and the outside too.  I was first class so I got to use the Lounge, it was small but served our needs.  

Another one that's always impressed me was Grand Central in NYC.  And of course, our home town Union Station-St. Louis, which is no longer in use as a station, but a hotel and shopping plaza. But the building still has the beauty that it always had and I'm glad it was preserved.  

Los Angeles Union would be another nominee, I love the plush armchairs. It's been years since I was there, but I see they are still around when a movie shows the station.  

 
 
 
Bill Thoms wrote re: The finest urban passenger station
on Tue, Jan 24 2012 1:17 PM

New Haven station also serves a third carrier--Shore Line East, as well as intercity buses.  I worked my way through law school in that station as a crew caller.  The station was designed by Cass Gilbert, after he finished the station in my new home town of Little Falls, MN.

 
 
 
Bill Thoms wrote re: The finest urban passenger station
on Tue, Jan 24 2012 1:18 PM

New Haven station also serves a third carrier--Shore Line East, as well as intercity buses.  I worked my way through law school in that station as a crew caller.  The station was designed by Cass Gilbert, after he finished the station in my new home town of Little Falls, MN.

 
 
 
Pasadena Bound wrote re: The finest urban passenger station
on Wed, Jan 25 2012 5:24 PM

Fred:

From your selection I must “assume” that you have never visited L.A. Union Station.

Give it a bit of your time. L.A. Union Station is like the Huntington Library and the Huntington Museum; a piece of class lost in the fog of our times.

 
 
 
Fred Frailey wrote re: The finest urban passenger station
on Wed, Jan 25 2012 8:25 PM

Pasadena, been to LAUPD/LAUS may times, starting in 1969. Lovely place, probably should have given it a nomination. But every time I go there, it is without a cart and the distances are a quarter mile to the train, it seems. Plus, the first-class area is a joke. Plus, in the morning there is no restaurant. Just doesn't add up to Portland. Great history, no here and now. Whoever mentioned Philly 30th Street had a point. I had forgotten that. Among BIG urban station is it a winner, no sweat. Among the smaller cities, I stick with Portland. Go ahead, shoot me <g>

Fred Frailey

 
 
 
Railfan44 wrote re: The finest urban passenger station
on Mon, Jan 30 2012 7:18 PM

Portland, hands down!

 
 
 
pfc wrote re: The finest urban passenger station
on Mon, Jan 30 2012 7:38 PM

Like the feel and flow of the Portland station.  Was there last summer to ride the Cascades up to Seattle (King Street needs more than a facelift) and back.  Harrisburg and Wilmington are small stations but have a very comfortable and relaxed feel.  

 
 
 
LehighVic wrote re: The finest urban passenger station
on Tue, Jan 31 2012 8:25 AM

I'm surprised that no one's piped up yet for the Cinncinati, OH terminal!  So register my vote for that station.  An awesome ediface, the echoing sound box of its waiting room and the subdued lighting on the interior finishes take one's breath away.

 
 
 
Champsummers wrote re: The finest urban passenger station
on Tue, Jan 31 2012 11:13 AM

LeighVic,

Cincinnati Union Terminal is an unbelievable building.  The largest half dome east of the Mississippi River and the murals.  This one has to be seen.

 
 
 
New Jersey wrote re: The finest urban passenger station
on Tue, Jan 31 2012 12:30 PM

I have a special affinity for Newark Penn Station (NJ). It has all the attributes (and problems) of a big city station but on a smaller scale plus a pleasing density and diversity of traffic (rail, bus, and human). Architecturally it is a grand expression of Industrial Art Deco. However I find the most comforting thing about Newark Penn is one specific sound: the constant clicking of the still-working Solari Board in the main hall ... are there any others still in use?

For a real treat go a bit further east to Hoboken's recently restored 1907 Lackawanna Terminal - magnificent!

 
 
 
bjturon wrote re: The finest urban passenger station
on Tue, Jan 31 2012 7:28 PM

I like the station at Albany-Rensselaer; it reminds me of my home in Upstate New York because it’s an oversize version of a NYS Thruway rest stop, one of the newer rest stops!

Seriously it looks funny, the architectural version of a new car designed to look like a classic antique that misses the mark, for all those cities that want to build “retro looking” stations, beware looking like a post-modern cartoon, with an attached parking garage.

But it’s very busy and much better than the two previous stations that have finally been demolished to make way for a forth platform track. I have attended several events there including National Train Day and the 40th Anniversary Train, and found it a pleasant place to spend a day, the staff is very friendly.

Saratoga has a new station that hit’s the mark architecturally, being both contemporary yet traditional in design and style, respectable and not too flashy. With Amtrak, the Saratoga & North Creek Railway, Greyhound/Adirondack Trailways, and local CDTA buses, its a pretty busy place these days. In the summer you get private cars, saw the CSX business train last summer. People come in the evening to watch the trains pass by.

I think that the way we feel about public places like train stations is dependent on the emotions they evoke, based on our own memories and the history witness in these places.

What made the old Penn Station great wasn’t just the architecture, but the many human stories that took place within its walls. Like soldiers going to war, or coming home, the fond farewells, the joyful returns, or the sorrow from those which never came home.

Losing that historic building was like losing a relative because of the role it played not just in the history of a railroad, a city, or a nation; but in the lives of families and individuals. That’s what busy urban stations offer, lots of action, lots of stories, comedies and drama playing out every day. When its train time, it’s show time.

The Albany-Rensselaer Station did inspire me to compose a small poem (stolen from Gilbert & Sullivan) about the final removal of the previous Amtrak and Penn Central stations. For years you literally had three stations standing side by side in a row, the historic progression of passenger rail in New York State since 1970.

The Three Stations of Rensselaer

Three stations at Rensselaer to see,

Filled with passengers once where thee,

But now only one that Amtrak needs,

Yet three railway stations still we see.

One station is from Penn Central,

Two of the stations have no potential,

Three stations here are not essential,

Yet three railway stations still we see.

One station is an Amtrak shack,

Two in the way of a platform track,

Three stations here are quite a stack,

Yet three railway stations still we see.

From three stations take two away,

Two of the stations are gone today,

Soon there will be high-speed rail someday!

 
 
 
Jim in Fla wrote re: The finest urban passenger station
on Wed, Feb 1 2012 1:35 PM

Fred,

What's wrong with Grand Central? Is it the lack of Amtrack that stops it being considered? Has the Oyster Bar closed?

I grew up on Long Island (Malverne, Baldwin after I married) so we use Penn Station from '43 to '76. Then moved to Monroe, NY on the line to Port Jervis that went to Hoboken. Moved to Florida in 2007 so didn't do the change to get to Penn very often.

Once they smashed Penn and converted it to the worlds largest subway station there was no contest. Grand Central was the best. When was Hoboken restored?

 
 
 
bobgpdx wrote re: The finest urban passenger station
on Fri, Feb 3 2012 1:11 AM

Great choice, Fred!  Our hometown Portland Union Stn. remains a terrific place, though it's a shame all the once-bustling yard tracks are long gone. It's been a few years since I've taken the Amtrak Cascades to Seattle, but it's a great trip.

I also love Philly's 30th St., since I grew up in Phlia. & remember going up to my Mom's office @ the Pullman Co. there, as well as many fondly-remembered trips from the there to NYC & D.C. as a kid.

 
 
 
theos wrote re: The finest urban passenger station
on Tue, Feb 14 2012 12:59 AM

As a Brit my knowledge is somewhat limited but I salute the magnificent overall effort to keep some magnificent and huge buildings in tip top condition, albeit there are sad losses.

We have a journey in the planning that includes San Diego (that ought to be among those mentioned here), LA which we have been to and enjoyed, Portland and Seattle -also new territory for us.

Grand Central, Washington Union,30th Street Philadelphia,Newark Penn must all be up there too.

Among those used for other things these days what is left of Nashville is a success.

On the smaller scale Santa Barbara, Hyde Park on the NYC, and Gaitersburg on the B and O have all proved pleasant stop over points.

In Canada Quebec and Toronto stns worked for me too.

 
 
 
SeattleGuide wrote re: The finest urban passenger station
on Tue, Mar 13 2012 11:38 PM

Commendable choice, Fred, a place I visit often during the travel season and always enjoy.  We're fortunate that several other beauties remain; all those mentioned are worthy.  Not mentioned: Baltimore Penn.  It's nicely restored, busy, has decent amenities and at least the southern long distance trains still calling daily.

 
 
 
ship guy wrote re: The finest urban passenger station
on Wed, Mar 14 2012 4:36 PM

I've never been to Portland, but it looks like a beauty. Too bad B&O's Mount Royal Station isn't still intact--there's a lot about these pictures that remind me of it.

 
 
 
aricat wrote re: The finest urban passenger station
on Mon, Mar 19 2012 4:09 PM

Saint Paul Union Depot; both a classy station and a great train watching spot.It ranks with KC and Portland.In the early 1950's you could ride over to Minneapolis on the Zephyr or Hiawatha then come back on TCRT,either riding a standard car on the Como Harriet or a PCC car on the Intercity Line.

 
 
 
David S wrote re: The finest urban passenger station
on Thu, Mar 22 2012 1:50 PM

I feel inadequate. Out of six great stations, all Chicago has left is half of one, and even that feels like.... I don't know. A relic, maybe, rather than a living space. Sure, thousands of people go through it daily, but it's just not how it must have once been. Amtrak keeps talking about reopening the office space to rental tenants, but it will never be right unless they reopen the Official Watch Inspector's office (at least as a historic interpretive feature for people waiting for trains to visit -- now there's an idea I bet no one's had before).

 
 
 
New Jersey wrote re: The finest urban passenger station
on Tue, Apr 3 2012 9:39 PM

Fred, I know I'm a bit late coming into this conversation but I must ask, what about Newark Pennsylvania Station? Not only is Newark a major Northeast Corridor station it is a magnificent example of industrial Art Deco ... plus it still has it's working Solari Board!

 
Copyright © 2011 TRAINS.COM
Powered by Community Server (Commercial Edition), by Telligent Systems
SEARCH SITE
Subscriber Only Content
Subscriber Only Content
This icon denotes premium subscriber content.   Learn more »
Search our Community
in
About this Blog
Popular Tags